A visit to Madeira has been on my wish list for quite some time, to hike along the Levadas, that I heard so much about. I made it as birthday gift to myself 🙂 and travelled with Topas 19-26 October.
Madeira is a stunning island in the Atlantic Ocean, located about 500 km to the west of Morocco. Its often called the Island of Eternal Spring because of the mild climate year-round, with temperatures averaging around 20° C, making it a perfect year-round destination. Its lush landscapes, dramatic cliffs, and jagged mountains form an exciting backdrop to this volcanic island.
Madeira’s history dates back to the early 15th century when Portuguese explorers, led by João Gonçalves Zarco, discovered it. Over the centuries, Madeira grew as a hub for sugarcane production, and later, a popular port for European trade. Today, the island is famous for its fortified Madeira wine, which is produced using a unique aging process. It also produce Rom and they also export a lot of bananas.
The island is crisscrossed by Levadas – water channels that date back to the 16th century. Initially built to move water from the mountains to the fields below. These days the Levadas serve as pathways for hiking through lush forests, past cascading waterfalls, and over towering cliffs. Some of the most popular hikes include the Levada do Caldeirão Verde, which weaves through the Laurisilva forest (an UNESCO World Heritage site), and the challenging Levada do Rei, offering panoramic views of the island’s rugged interior.
The first three days we stayed at Santa Crux Village Hotel in the small village of Santa Cruz. The picture that looks like a orange juice is a local refreshing drink Poncha, made of 2 parts orange juice, 1 part lemon juice, mixed with rum and honey.
Arrival date – 19 Oct.
Dinner: Recanto da Pitada.
Note: The hiking times and distances are approximate numbers and what my Garmin registered. Some hikes had many height meters.
Day 1 – 20 Oct. Levada do Canical to Porto da Cruz
Time: 2:30 | Distance: 9.20 km
Levada do Canical trail is along the northern coast, following the irrigation canal through a built-up area, observing how levadas are used in daily life. Notice the toilet seats used for the plants 😉
Boca do Risco pass the edge of Madeira, with steep cliffs dropping into the sea, and Porto Santo visible in the distance. Fantastic view! According to Hugo the guide, this popular spot can be very crowded during peak tourist season with up to 200 people at the same time!
The surroundings change to eucalyptus and pine trees. The path leads to the charming coastal village of Porto da Cruz, The last 1.5 km is a 300-meter descent.
In Porto da Cruz, we enjoyed lunch at a restaurant with sea view. It is also possible to take a swim in the natural rock pools. After lunch we visited the local rum distillery. The village is also know for it’s surf community.
Dinner: No documentation
Day 2 – 21 Oct. Morning – São Lourenço Peninsula
Time: 2:00 | Distance: 6 km
Morning hike was along the São Lourenço Peninsula, located at Madeira’s eastern tip and is one of the island’s most striking natural landmarks. The area is a protected nature reserve with a scenic 7-kilometer hiking trail that offers panoramic views that is quite different from the other hikes on the island. The peninsula is as barren as the rest of the island is green. It offers a unique “moon-like” landscape with volcanic rock formations.
Aside from a palm-fringed forestry station with a small exhibition and a café, the area is a semi-desert, Together with Mogens, I climbed to the top at the end of the peninsula, very steep but the reward is another stunning view over the island and ocean.
Day 2 – 21 Oct. Afternoon – Praia da Machico
Time: 1:00 | Distance: 3 km
After the visit to the peninsula, we drove to the edge of Caniçal and followed an old path over the mountain to Praia da Machico. There is a small café on the top. Many height meters and steep after the café descending to Machico and the beach.
Machico has one of Madeira’s few sandy beaches, with golden sand imported from Sahara.
PS. This was my birthday and the group was so nice they sang a birthday song for me in the bus and there was Cava in my room 🙂
Dinner: Restaurante O Professor
Day 3 – 22 Oct. Madeiras highest peak, Santana and Funchal
Today we should move to another hotel in Funchal, and the plan was to hike to Madeira’s highest peak: Pico do Arieiro (1,818 m) but due to very heavy rain and after approx. 250 m. walk half the group and I decided to return to the café at the parking lot where the trail started, and stay there. The other half concurred the weather conditions and after returning, few hours later, they all agreed that it was a bad idea with limited view, very slippery (dangerous) and very wet experience.
On the way to Funchal we visited the small village Santana, famous for it’s A-framed thatched houses, Casas do Colmo, that also offer a glimpse into the local culture.
Arriving to Funchal the sun was shining, Funchal is Madeira’s capital and a blend of history, nature, and culture, named after fennel (funcho in Portuguese), it origins from the 16th century as a bustling Atlantic port for sugar and wine trade.
After checking in, Jan the guide took us on a nice guided stroll around the city center to see the Town hall, the port, Madeira Winery, the Zona Velha (old town) with it’s cobbled stone streets and the special painted doors, etc.
Dinner: A Bica
Day 4 – 23 Oct. Funchal and Monte Palace Tropical Garden
Together with René, I started the day with a visit the Mercado dos Lavradores (Farmers’ market) and Praca do Peixe (Fish market), where fish, fresh fruits, flowers, and local crafts are sold. The not so pretty black fish is called Black Scabbard (Espada-preto), a deep-sea delicacy, iconic to Madeira. Didn’t taste it, my mistake.
We took the cable car to the Jardim Tropical Monte Palace (Monte Palace Tropical Garden) – a lush retreat on the slopes of Monte. Visiting the garden was like stepping into another world, where nature, culture, art and tranquility come together. The garden is over 70,000 m² and displays approx. 100,000 plant species from all over the world. The view from here is fantastic, overlooking the terraced hills and the blue waters of the Atlantic.
Wandering through the winding paths, you find koi ponds, waterfalls, and hidden alcoves. The garden is a blend of natural beauty and man-made artistry, with intricately designed tiles, sculptures, and ornate fountains.
At the heart of the garden stands the Monte Palace, a majestic building that houses a collection of art and history. It once belonged to the British consul, Charles Murray, and was later bought by Alfredo Guilherme Rodrigues. He built the big manor house, inspired by German castles and turned it in a popular hotel, which closed in 1943. In 1987 it was bought and turned into the public garden you can see today.
Back in Funchal city we tasted some Madeira wine that is known for its unique production process involving heat and aging. Its rich flavors range from dry to sweet, making it versatile for both sipping and cooking. Renowned for its longevity, even opened bottles last for years.
Dinner: Theo’s
Day 5 – 24 Oct. Balcões viewpoint and Levada Furado
Time: 5:20 | Distance: 20 km
Starting in Ribero Frio we hiked to the Balcões viewpoint from where there is a fabulous view of the highest peaks. After enjoying the view, we return to Ribeiro Frio along the same path and continue to Levada do Furado and later along Levada Portela. Levada do Furado is one of the first levadas built to irrigate farmland in Porto da Cruz. The trail ends with a staircase leading down to Portela.
Dinner: O Americano
Day 6 – 25 Oct. morning: Cascata do Risco, Rabacal and Vereda do Túnel do Cavalo
Time: 2:20 | Distance: 9 km
Morning hike was from Rabacal to the beautiful Cascata do Risco (Risco Waterfall). Even if it was raining a little bit and I was glad I invested in a new rain jacket the other day, the hike was amazing. After the water fall we walked through the 800 meter long Vereda do Túnel do Cavalo that both had a levada canal and a water pipe to produce electricity. Using flash light was an advantage. When entering the tunnel we had rain, at the exit it was blue sky and sun :-O.
Lunch at Cafetaria Panoeste, tasted the Portuguese cake Pastel de Nata (or was it Queijada da Madeira?), according to Hugo the local guide, this place served the best ones on the island.
Day 6 – 25 Oct. afternoon: Raposeira Do Logarinho
Time: 1:40 | Distance: 7 km
After lunch we hiked from the café to Raposeira Do Logarinho, through some rural areas with fantastic views over the landscape, overlooking the sea and the burned trees after a big bushfire some years ago. Ended the hike at a café in Raposeira Do Logarinho for a refreshing Poncha.
On the way back to Funchal we passed Cabo Girão, one of the world’s highest sea cliff viewpoints where you stand on a glass floor and look down 580 meters to the cliff and sea below.
Back in Funchal it was time for last dinner. Good bye Madeira, it was a great pleasure.
Dinner: Restaurante Do Forte
